Why Is My Lash Retention Bad? A Lash Artist's Checklist to Fix It

Your client was so happy when she left your chair. Two weeks later she is back, and half of her lashes are gone. She asks, "Is it the glue?" And honestly, you are asking yourself the same question.

After more than nine years behind the lash bed, I can tell you this: bad retention is almost never caused by just one thing. It is usually a few small things adding up. The good news is that most of them are easy to fix once you know where to look.

Here is the checklist I use when a client's lashes are not lasting. Go through it step by step, and you will usually find the problem.

First, what is "normal" retention?

Natural lashes shed every day, and each extension falls out with the natural lash it is attached to. So some loss between fills is completely normal. With good prep, good technique and a good adhesive, most clients should come in for a fill at 2–3 weeks with a nice amount of lashes still in place.

If your clients are losing most of their set in the first week, or you see extensions falling out without a natural lash attached, something in your process needs attention.

1. Prep: clean lashes hold better

Oil, makeup, sweat and skincare on the natural lash are the number one enemy of retention. Adhesive cannot bond to a lash that is coated with residue.

• Cleanse every client, every time, even if she says she came in with no makeup. A gentle foaming cleanser like our Foam Lash Cleanser with a soft Cleansing Brush removes oils without stripping the lash.
• Use a primer after cleansing. Primer removes the last bit of oil and helps the adhesive grab. Our Ready Set Lash Primer is lightweight and gentle enough for every appointment.
• Let the lashes dry completely before you start. Applying adhesive on damp lashes can weaken the bond.

2. Your room: humidity and temperature matter

Lash adhesive cures by reacting with moisture in the air. That means your room conditions change how your adhesive behaves.

• Too dry: the adhesive cures too slowly. Lashes can stick together or slide before the bond sets.
• Too humid: the adhesive cures too fast, sometimes before the extension is fully placed. This makes a weak, brittle bond.
• Get a hygrometer. It is a small, cheap tool that shows your room's humidity and temperature. Check it before every appointment.

Our Captivate (black) and Essence (clear) adhesives work best at 30–50% humidity and 68–73°F. Here in Utah the air is very dry, so many of us need a humidifier for most of the year. If you live somewhere humid, a dehumidifier or air conditioning can help.

3. Adhesive handling: small habits, big difference

Even the best adhesive will not perform well if it is not handled right.

• Shake it well before every appointment, and again during long sets.
• Use a fresh drop every 15–20 minutes. An old drop starts to thicken and cure, and it will not bond properly.
• Keep the nozzle clean. Wipe it after each use with a Lint Free Adhesive Wipe so it does not clog, and close the cap tightly.
• Store it right. Keep the bottle upright in a cool, dark place, away from sunlight, and never in the fridge or freezer once it is open. Replace an opened bottle every 4–6 weeks, for both Captivate and Essence. Once air gets in, the adhesive slowly loses its strength.
• Choose an adhesive that matches your speed. A fast-drying adhesive in slow hands can cure before you place the extension. Both of our adhesives dry in 1–1.5 seconds.

Want to understand what is actually inside your adhesive? Read our guide: Lash Extension Adhesive Guide: Ingredients, Clear vs. Black, and Storage Tips.

4. Technique: how you place each lash

This is where many artists, even experienced ones, can improve their retention.

• Isolate cleanly. Every extension should be attached to one natural lash only. Stickies are uncomfortable for your client, and they cause early shedding and damage. A precise isolation tweezer like our On Point Tweezer makes this much easier.
• Get enough attachment. The extension should be attached along about 1–2 mm of the natural lash, not only at one tiny point.
• Leave a small gap from the skin. Place the extension about 0.5–1 mm away from the eyelid. Too close is uncomfortable and can cause irritation. Too far out and it will twist and fall sooner.
• Use the right amount of adhesive. Too much makes a heavy, stiff base and a slow cure. Too little does not hold. Aim for a small, smooth bead.
• Match the extension to the natural lash. An extension that is too long or too heavy for a weak natural lash will fall early, and it can damage the natural lash too. When in doubt, go lighter. For volume, fine fans like our FauxMink 0.03MM or 0.05MM lashes keep the weight safe.

5. Seal the set

A sealer or bonder at the end of the appointment finishes the cure, locks in the bond and helps reduce fumes. Our Complete Bond creates a flexible bond and helps your client open her eyes without stinging or watering. When I use primer, adhesive and sealer together, I see the best retention.

6. Aftercare: what happens at home

You can do everything perfectly in the chair, and the set can still fail at home. Teach your clients:

• Wash the lashes every day with a lash-safe foaming cleanser. Clean lashes last longer, and oil buildup is one of the biggest reasons for early loss.
• Avoid oil-based products around the eyes, like oily makeup remover, eye creams and some serums.
• Brush the lashes gently every morning with a clean spoolie. Our Uplift Lash Spoolies are a sweet gift to send home with every client.
• Do not rub, pull or pick at the lashes, and try not to sleep face-down.
• Come back for fills on time, usually every 2–3 weeks.

I send my aftercare instructions by text after every appointment, so my clients always have them on their phone.

7. The client herself

Some retention problems have nothing to do with you. Oily skin, hormone changes, some medications, a new skincare routine, swimming, hot yoga and the natural shedding cycle can all affect how long lashes last. Ask your client what has changed since her last appointment. Sometimes the answer is right there.

Quick retention checklist

1. Did I cleanse and prime every lash, and let it dry?
2. Is my room at 30–50% humidity and 68–73°F?
3. Is my adhesive fresh, shaken, stored right, and am I changing my drop every 15–20 minutes?
4. Am I isolating cleanly and getting 1–2 mm of attachment?
5. Is the extension the right weight for this natural lash?
6. Did I seal the set?
7. Does my client know her aftercare, and is she following it?

Retention is a system

Great retention does not come from one magic product. It comes from clean prep, the right room, fresh adhesive, careful technique and good aftercare all working together. Fix one small thing at a time, and you will see the difference at your next fills.

If you are still struggling, our adhesives and lash care tools were built to work together, because I use every single one on my own clients first.

With love,
Badmaa